If you have bought Korean skincare in the last few years you have used centella, whether or not you noticed. It is in more Korean formulations than any other botanical, and unlike most trend ingredients it has the research behind it to justify the position.
What is centella asiatica?
Centella asiatica is a small creeping plant with round, scalloped leaves that grows in wetlands across Asia. It has been used in traditional medicine in India, China and Indonesia for centuries, mostly for wound healing.
You will see it on labels under several names, which is a common source of confusion:
- Centella asiatica extract — the whole plant extract
- Cica — shorthand used in marketing, same plant
- Madecassoside, asiaticoside, madecassic acid, asiatic acid — the four isolated active compounds, collectively called TECA or madecassol
- Gotu kola, tiger grass — common names for the same plant
The isolated compounds are more potent than the whole extract. Madecassoside is the one most associated with calming, asiaticoside with wound healing and collagen.
What does centella do for skin?
Three things, and they are unusually well supported for a botanical:
- It calms inflammation. The strongest and fastest effect. This is why it turns up in every Korean product aimed at sensitive or irritated skin.
- It supports wound healing. There is real dermatological literature here, including on post-procedure skin and on scarring. Asiaticoside stimulates fibroblast activity and collagen synthesis.
- It supports barrier repair. Both by reducing the inflammation that keeps a barrier from healing and by encouraging ceramide production.
That combination — anti-inflammatory plus pro-healing plus barrier-supporting — is why centella is the default ingredient for a compromised barrier in Korean formulating, in the way that ceramides are in Western formulating.
What does it not do?
Worth being clear, because the marketing has got ahead of the evidence in places:
- It will not fade dark spots. Not a pigmentation ingredient. Use niacinamide, vitamin C or azelaic acid.
- It will not clear acne. It calms the inflammation around a spot and helps the mark fade afterwards. It does not stop spots forming.
- It will not replace a retinoid for fine lines. The collagen effect is real but modest compared to a retinoid.
- It will not fix rosacea. It may take the edge off. Rosacea is medical.
Centella is a soothing and repairing ingredient that has been marketed as a universal one. Used for what it does, it is excellent.
Who should use it?
Centella is a good fit if your skin is:
- Red, reactive, or stinging on products it used to tolerate
- Recovering from over-exfoliation or a too-fast retinoid introduction
- Prone to marks that linger after spots heal
- Generally sensitive with no single obvious trigger
It is one of the least likely ingredients in skincare to cause a reaction, which is much of its appeal. If you are in the middle of repairing a barrier, this is the active worth keeping.
What we carry
SKIN1004 built its whole range around centella from Madagascar, which is where the highest-quality material is grown, and it is the shelf I point people at most often:
- Madagascar Centella Ampoule — the plain version, a single-ingredient calming layer. Start here.
- Probio-Cica Intensive Ampoule — adds probiotic ferments for skin that is reactive as well as dry.
- Probio-Cica Enrich Cream — our most-recommended barrier repair moisturiser.
- Tea-Trica Relief Ampoule — centella with tea tree, for skin that is reactive and congested, which is a difficult combination.
- Centella Ampoule Foam — a cleanser gentle enough for a damaged barrier.
Elsewhere on the shelf: Purito SEOUL Wonder Releaf Centella Serum in an unscented version, and the Beauty of Joseon Centella Calming Mask for acute irritation.
How should you use it?
As a serum or ampoule, after your hydrating toner and before moisturiser, once or twice daily. It layers with everything and interacts badly with nothing.
Calming effects show within days. Barrier and healing effects take four to eight weeks.
Common questions
What is the difference between centella and cica?
None. Cica is marketing shorthand for centella asiatica.
Is centella better than niacinamide?
Different jobs. Centella calms and repairs; niacinamide addresses tone, oil and pigment. Most routines benefit from both.
Can I use centella every day?
Yes, twice a day if you like. It is one of the few actives with essentially no tolerance ceiling.
Does centella help acne scars?
It helps flat post-inflammatory marks fade. It does not fill indented atrophic scarring, which needs clinical treatment.
Is centella safe in pregnancy?
Topical centella is generally regarded as low risk, but check with your doctor rather than relying on a shop.